In this tutorial, I will explain how to scale and resize images without losing quality by using smart objects in Photoshop. We will learn the difference between resizing and normal pixel-based image and resizing a smart object. We will also learn, why objects always look better. I’ll also include a tip at the end of this tutorial to make sure you are always getting the best results.
I’ll be using Adobe Photoshop CC. Any other recent versions of Photoshop will also work well. Let’s get started to see the advantage of resizing an image as a smart object. Once quickly set up everything so we can view a side-by-side comparison between resizing a normal image and resizing a smart object.
If we look in the layers panel, we see the image on the background layer we need to make two copies of the images, one for the normal pixel version and one for the smart object. To make the first copy, go up to the layer menu in the menu bar, choose new and then choose layer via copy. In the layers panel a copy of the image appears above the original. To make the second copy, use the keyboard shortcut. This time use ctrl J on a Windows PC or command J on a Mac. A second copy appears above the others. Let’s rename our copies so we know which is which. Double click on the top layers name layer 1 copy and rename it smart object. Press Enter or return on a Mac to accept it. Then double click on the name layer one below it and rename it pixels and again press enter. We don’t need the image on the background layer anymore. So let’s fill the background with white. Click on the background layer to select it. Then go up to the Edit menu and choose fill. In the fill dialog box set the contents option to white and then click ok.
To fit both versions of image side-by-side, we need more canvas space. Go up to the image menu and choose canvas size. In the canvas size dialog box, set the width to 200 percent and the height to 100 percent. Leave the relative option unchecked and in the anchor grid, choose the square in the middle left. This will place all of the extra space to right of the image. Click ok to close the dialog box.
To move one of the images into the new space, select the move tool from the toolbar. In the layer panel, click on the smart object layer at the top to select it. Then click on the image and drag it into the new space on the right. We now have the image that will remain a pixel-based image on the left and the image that will convert to a smart object on the right. Finally, to convert the image on the right into a smart object, make sure the smart object layer is selected in the layers panel. Click the menu icon in the top right corner of the layers panel and then choose convert to smart object from the list. Photoshop converts the layer to a smart object and the smart object icon appears in the layers thumbnail. Now that we have our document set up.
Now we have made images smaller. What happens, if we try making them bigger? We will start by scaling the width and height from 10% up to 50% of the original size. To do that, I need to increase both the width height from 100% to 500%. But before I close out of the free transform, we can already see what’s happening. Instead of adding new detail to the image, Photoshop is just taking the pixels from the smaller version and making them bigger. In fact, the pixels are very obvious. I will press Enter or return again to close out free transform.
At this point Photoshop tries to clean up the image and blend the pixels together. But the result looks very soft and blurry. It’s not something you would want to use.
Let’s compare when we upscale the smart object. I’ll select the smart object in the layers panel. Then I’ll go back once again to the edit menu and I’ll choose free transform. This time the free transform handles appear around the smart object on the right. If we look in the options bar, we can already see a difference between the pixel version of the image and the smart object.
With the pixel version, Photoshop reset the width and height value to 100% after we resized it. But the smart object is still showing a width and height of just 10%. Unlike the pixel version, Photoshop still remember the original size of the smart object and it knows that we are currently viewing it, at something other than its original size. I’ll upscale the width and height from 10% to 50%.
But rather than having to enter 500% like I did with the pixel version, the smart object makes it much easier. I can just set both values to 50%. To upscale the image on the Left Photoshop just took the remaining pixels from the smaller version and made them bigger, resulting in a blocky image. But the smart object on the right looks much better.
In fact it looks just as good as the original only smaller. I’ll press Enter and return again to close out of free transform. And this time Photoshop doesn’t need to do anything to clean up the image because the smart object already looks great. So why does the smart object look so much better than the Pixel version?
It’s because of how smart objects work. A smart object is just a container that holds something inside it. In this case it’s holding our image. When we scale a smart object to make it bigger or smaller, it’s the size of the container that we are changing not what’s inside it. If we make the container smaller, the image inside it looks smaller and if we make the container bigger, the image inside it looks bigger.
No matter how many times we resize a smart object. It has no effect on the image inside it which is why the smart object always looks great.
That’s how to scale and resize images without losing quality using smart objects in Photoshop.
The standard meaning of image file formate is organizing and storing digital images. An image file format may store data whether in an uncompressed format or a compressed format or a vector format. Image files are composed of digital data in one of these formats so that the data can be rasterized for use on a computer display or printer.
There are hundreds of image file types. The PNG, JPEG, and GIF and many more formats are used to display images on the Internet. Some of these graphic formats are listed and briefly described below, separated into the two main families of graphics:
Raster images are constructed by a series of pixels, or individual blocks, to form an image. JPEG, GIF, and PNG are all raster image extensions. Every photo you find online or in print is a raster image.
In order to retain pixel quality, you cannot resize raster images without compromising their resolution. As a result, it is important to remember to save raster files at the exact dimensions needed for the application.
Vector images are far more flexible. They are constructed using proportional formulas rather than pixels. EPS, AI and PDF are perfect for creating graphics that require frequent resizing. The real beauty of vectors lies in their ability to be sized as small as a postage stamp, or large enough to fit on a large image!
In this tutorial, I will only talk about the rater image formate because most of the image formate used are raster formats. Here are the best 7 image formate described below_
1. PEG (or JPG) – Joint Photographic Experts Group
2. PNG – Portable Network Graphics
3. PSD – Photoshop Document
4. TIFF – Tagged Image File
5. GIF – Graphics Interchange Format
6. PDF – Portable Document Format
7. RAW – Raw Image Formats
JPEGs might be the most common file type you run across on the web. JPEGs are known for their “lossy” compression, meaning that the quality of the image decreases as the file size decreases. JPEG-compressed images are usually stored in the JFIF (JPEG File Interchange Format) file format. The JPEG/JFIF filename extension is JPG or JPEG. Nearly every digital camera can save images in the JPEG/JFIF format, which supports eight-bit grayscale images and 24-bit color images
JPEG stands for Joint Photographic Experts Group, which created this standard for this type of image formatting. JPEG files are images that have been compressed to store a lot of information in a small-size file. JPEG files are usually used for photographs on the web because they create a small file that is easily loaded on a web page and also looks good. JPEG files are bad for line drawings or logos or graphics, as the compression makes them look “bitmapped”
PNG stands for “Portable Graphics Format”. It is the most frequently used uncompressed raster image format on the internet. This lossless data compression format was created to replace the Graphics Interchange Format (GIF). PNG file format is an open format with no copyright limitations. Like GIF images, PNG also has the ability to display transparent backgrounds. PNGs are amazing for interactive documents such as web pages but are not suitable for print. While PNGs are “lossless,” meaning you can edit them and not lose quality, they are still low resolution.
The reason PNGs are used in most web projects is that you can save your image with more colors on a transparent background. This makes for a much sharper, web-quality image. The PNG (Portable Network Graphics) file format was created as a free.
PNG provides a patent-free replacement for GIF (though GIF is itself now patent-free), and can also replace many common uses of TIFF. Indexed-color, grayscale, and true color images are supported, plus an optional alpha channel. It’s used almost exclusively for web images, never for print images. For photographs, PNG is not as good as JPEG, because it creates a larger file. But for images with some text or line art, it’s better. When you take a screenshot on your Mac, the resulting image is a PNG–probably because most screenshots are a mix of images and text.
PSD file is a layered image file used in Adobe PhotoShop. PSD, which stands for Photoshop Document. When an image is complete, Photoshop allows the user to flatten the layers and convert the flat image into a.JPG, .GIF, .TIFF or other file format so it can be shared. This is the default format that Photoshop uses for saving data. Once a PSD image has been flattened by conversion, however, it cannot be converted back to PSD.
PSDs are files that are created and saved in Adobe Photoshop, the most popular graphics editing software ever. This type of file contains “layers” that make modifying the image much easier to handle. That is why this formate is very much popular among the editor. As the layer is saved in the PSD file so the next editor can easily move on his next editing process.
The largest disadvantage of PSDs is that Photoshop works with raster images as opposed to vector images. Comparing to JPEG and PNG file PSD file size is quite bigger. The more layer you use in the photoshop the file size will increase. So that may make you in difficulties for transferring, storing or sharing a large image.
TIFF stands for Tagged Image File Format. TIFF images create very large file sizes. TIFF images are uncompressed and thus contain a lot of detailed image data. TIFF is best for any bitmap images that you intend to edit. TIFF files don’t compress to make for smaller files, because they are meant to preserve quality. This file type is known for using “lossless compression,” meaning the original image data is maintained regardless of how often you might copy, re-save, or compress the original file. TIFF files are large and of very high quality.
Four types of baseline TIFF images are available: bi-level (black and white), grayscale, palette, and RGB. RGB images may store up to 16.7 million colors. Palette and gray-scale images are limited to 256 colors or shades. A common extension of TIFF also allows for CMYK images.
The TIFF format is a flexible format that normally saves eight bits or sixteen bits per color (red, green, blue) for 24-bit and 48-bit totals. TIFF is the most common file type used in photo software such as Photoshop because a TIFF contains a lot of image data. TIFF image format is not widely supported by web browsers. TIFF remains widely accepted as a photograph file standard in the printing business.
The Graphics Interchange Format is a bitmap image format that was developed by a team at the online services provider CompuServe led by an American computer scientist. It has since come into widespread usage on the World Wide Web due to its wide support and portability between many applications and operating systems.
The format supports up to 8 bits per pixel for each image, allowing a single image to reference its own palette of up to 256 different colors chosen from the 24-bit RGB color space. It also supports animations.
GIF images are compressed using the Lempel–Ziv–Welch (LZW) lossless data compression technique to reduce the file size without degrading the visual quality. This compression technique was patented in 1985.
This is a common file type for web projects where an image needs to load very quickly, as opposed to one that needs to retain a higher level of quality. GIFs also have an extremely limited color range suitable for the web but not for printing. This format is never used for photography, because of the limited number of colors. GIFs can also be used for animations.
The Portable Document Format (PDF) is a file format developed by Adobe in the 1990s to present documents, including text formatting and images. Today, PDF files may contain a variety of content besides flat text and graphics including logical structuring elements, interactive elements such as annotations and form-fields, layers, rich media (including video content) and three-dimensional objects using U3D or PRC, and various other data formats.
If a designer saves your vector logo in PDF format, you can view it without any design editing software (as long as you have downloaded the free Acrobat Reader software), and they have the ability to use this file to make further manipulations. This is by far the best universal tool for sharing graphics. PDFs were invented by Adobe with the goal of capturing and reviewing rich information from any application, on any computer, with anyone, anywhere.
A RAW image is the least-processed image type on this list — it’s often the first format a picture inherits when it’s created. When you snap a photo with your camera, it’s saved immediately in a raw file format. Only when you upload your media to a new device and edit it using image software is it saved using one of the image extensions explained above.
RAW images are valuable because they capture every element of a photo without processing and losing small visual details.
Raw image files contain data from a digital camera (usually). The files are called raw because they haven’t been processed and therefore can’t be edited or printed yet. There are a lot of different raw formats available! Raw files usually contain a vast amount of data that is uncompressed. Because of this, the size of a raw file is extremely large. Usually, they are converted to TIFF before editing and color-correcting.
Photography is a busy profession. Arranging the products and shoot them in different angels can take a long time. Though you are a photographer you may need to involve some other part of your business. Whatever you are the only person to run your photography business or work with a team, the workload on you should be considerable.
Right after all those photoshoot workloads you also may need to do product photo editing before submitting to your clients. That is so horrible, right? But there is a solution for decreasing your workloads. You can outsource your product photo editing and stay focused with your photography business.
In this tutorial, I will tell you_
If you are planning to outsourcing your product photo editing services, you are in your perfect decision. Outsourcing product photo editing is not giving up your job, this allows you be more focused on your photography business. To get started first you need to set a plan on when you will upload your RAW images, how many images you have, when do you need them back and how you are going to pay your product photo editing partner.
The first thing you can do for finding your photo editing partner is searching in Google. You will find lots of companies that are offering photo editing services online. But all of the companies are not professionals. You can use their “Get Quote” to know their editing quality as well as the pricing.
If you are looking for a recommended company from me, I will recommend Clipping Pix.com. They have over 7 years of experience in outsourcing product photo editing. You can get a free sample image for free. Here is the website link_
Once you have determined with whom you are going to work with, now it’s time to know which services you need for your images. There are several services available for editing a photo. The most popular photo editing services are_
If you need Background Removal for your images to make it the white background or transparent background, you can choose Clipping Path Services or Photo Masking Service if you have fuzzy or blurred edges in your photos. If you need natural shadow in your photo, you can choose Drop Shadow Service. If you want to remove dust from your images you can choose Photo Retouching Service and if you need neck joint service or want any manipulation with your photo, you can choose Photo Manipulation Service.
Now you know which services you may need for your images post-production and also you know the best company for working with your images. After that, It’s time to get a quotation from your chosen company for your image editing services. The price may vary depending on the services you may need. The photo editing companies offer pricing calculating the complexity of your job. They calculate the image editing complexity depending on the time it takes to edit a whole image.
Which image takes up-to 10 minutes to edit, they define that images as simple images and charge for simple image editing. Having some curves, anchor points and wholes makes images more complex to edit and it takes around 10-20 minutes or even more to remove background each image. In this case, they define these images as medium complex images and charge different pricing.
In most photo editing company website you will find the “GET QUOTE” button. You can submit your one or two sample images and instructions to get the pricing for your whole project. Usually, they replay the quotation pricing within 24 hours. You can also claim a Free sample image to know the quality of the image editing.
Once you are satisfied with the pricing and the quality, you can submit your order following their Order Now button. Most of the websites you will find the “Order Now” button in the header menu. You can go to the Order page and can submit your images, instructions and chose turnaround time. They will process your images following your instructions and will return the edited images by your desired time. Most of the photo editing company use Dropbox and Google Drive as a Cloud platform to return back your completed images. Once you receive all your completed images you can then pay via Paypal or MasterCard. That is very simple, right?
If you are a photographer then you know the importance of a lens for your DSLR camera. A photographer can capture the masterpiece photo only by the help of a good DSLR lense. A good lense allows capturing wide-angle photos, Micro Photos, Telephotos and much more. Your best DSLR Lense and how you are using them can make a big difference between an ordinary shot and a masterpiece shoot.
In this tutorial, I will try to find out the best Lenses for your DSLR camera found in the market. I will give you the reviews and details in this tutorial. This may help you to purchase your next DSLR lenses.
The basic classification of lenses_
iii) Telephoto lens (above 135mm)
The Best DSLR Lenses in 2020
The EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Lens from Canon is a telephoto zoom lens ideal for day-to-day use. Because it is particularly light and compact, especially given its long focal reach. Able to magnify distant subjects, it also compresses the space between subjects within the frame and with a shallow depth of field at its longer lengths, it offers attractive out of focus bokeh. Its minimum focus distance is 4.9′, even at the telephoto end of its zoom. Versatile telephoto focal range ideal for portraiture and magnifying distant subjects. When used on an APS-C format camera the equivalent focal length range is 120-480mm. Lightweight and compact weighs only 16.8 oz Autofocus via front group extension system with DC micromotor 4.9′ minimum focus distance throughout the zoom range
2. Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 DC HSM Art DSLR Lens:
Distinguished by a uniquely fast and versatile design, the Canon EF-mount Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM is an Art-series zoom, covering wide-angle to normal focal lengths. Separating itself from the pack, this zoom features an exceedingly bright f/1.8 constant maximum aperture, which suits its use in difficult lighting conditions and offers impressive depth of field control throughout the zoom range. The optical design incorporates a series of SLD and aspherical elements, which help to achieve high clarity and sharpness by suppressing various aberrations, color fringing, and distortion. A Super Multi-Layer Coating has also been applied, too, which controls lens flare and ghosting for improved contrast and color accuracy. Balancing the optical merits, this 18-35mm also sports an advanced Hyper Sonic Motor, along with an internal focusing design, to promote fast, quiet, and precise autofocus performance.
3. Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM | S DSLR Lens:
prized for the event, portraiture, and sports shooting, the Canon EF-mount Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Sports Lens is a flexible telephoto zoom characterized by its bright and sophisticated design. The fast constant f/2.8 maximum aperture excels in difficult lighting conditions and also offers increased control over depth of field for isolating subjects. In regard to the optical layout, an impressive 10 low dispersion elements are used to greatly reduce chromatic aberrations and color fringing for improved clarity and color accuracy. A Super Multi-Layer Coating is also featured and helps to suppress ghosting and flare when working in strong lighting conditions.
4. Sigma 12-24mm f/4 DG HSM Art DSLR Lens:
covering a useful variety of ultra-wide focal lengths, the Canon EF-mount Sigma 12-24mm f/4 DG HSM is an Art-series zoom, characterized by its advanced design to greatly reduce distortion for a high degree of sharpness. A series of low dispersion and aspherical elements minimize both chromatic and spherical aberrations throughout the zoom range in order to achieve high clarity and color accuracy. A Super Multi-Layer Coating also helps to suppress lens flare and ghosting for color-accurate, contrast-rich imagery in a variety of lighting conditions.
Offering an impressively versatile range with a portable form factor, the Canon EF-mount 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM from Sigma is a Contemporary-series telephoto zoom characterized by its sophisticated optics and flexible handling. One FLD element and three SLD elements are used to reduce color fringing and chromatic aberrations throughout the zoom range and a Super Multi-Coating also helps to suppress flare and ghosting for improved contrast and color accuracy when working in strong lighting conditions.
6. Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 DSLR Lens:
A popular telephoto zoom for a variety of shooting applications, this Nikon F-mount SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens from Tamron is characterized by its bright f/2.8 constant maximum aperture, as well as sophisticated optical and physical designs. In regard to optics, an improved layout contains one XLD element and five LD elements to suppress color fringing and chromatic aberrations for notable clarity and color accuracy, and both BBAR and eBAND coatings have been applied to reduce flare and ghosting. Complementing the optical assets, this 70-200mm f/2.8 also features an advanced Vibration Compensation (VC) system that compensates for up to five stops of camera shake for sharper handheld shooting. A ring-type Ultrasonic Silent Drive autofocus motor is also featured for responsive and accurate performance, and also affords full-time manual focus override for fine-tuned control. Additionally, the lens is also dust- and moisture-resistant for working in trying environmental conditions, and it is paired with a rotating, removable tripod foot with an Arca-type compatible base for seamless shooting atop a tripod or monopod.
7. Canon EF-M 55-200mm f4.5-6.3 IS STM DSLR Lens :
Offering a versatile range of telephoto perspectives, the black EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM Lens from Canon is an 88-320mm equivalent zoom designed for APS-C-format EOS M-series mirrorless cameras. The optical design incorporates one aspherical element and one Ultra-Low Dispersion (UD) to control chromatic aberrations and distortions throughout the long-reaching zoom range. Complementing the optical design and telephoto reach is an Optical Image Stabilizer, which compensates for up to 3.5 stops of camera shake to benefit handheld shooting with slower shutter speeds. An STM stepping motor is also featured, which produces fast, smooth, and near-silent autofocus performance to support both stills and video recording applications. For increased control, full-time manual focus operation is also available for making fine-tuned focus adjustments.
Before purchase your next DSLR Lense, all the information above can help you to make a decision.
Clipping path is a technique in Adobe Photoshop to remove or change the background. This is an easy way to remove photo background. This service is very popular specially among the photographers and eCommerce sellers. In this tutorial I am going to show you how to create clipping path around an object and remove or replace with different background.
Open the Adobe Photoshop, the best image editing software in the market. If you don’t have the software you can find in Adobe Official website. Here is the Adobe Official link below_
Once you have the software installed in your computer please open it by clicking double click on the icon. Then go to the menu bar click file to choose a new file. You will get the default photoshop size there, click the create button to create a bland new page. After that, you can import the image you want to edit by drag and drop or can again click in the file and choose open to open your image.
Now you have opened your Adobe photoshop and also your image that you want create clipping path. Now you will find the clipping path tool icon at the left menu bar of the software. Click on it. Then at the bottom right side you will see Layer, select your photo layer and make it duplicate. That’s great! Now it’s time to start creating the path.
Zoom in the image into 200 to 300 percent and choose an image corner to start. Once you have chosen then click on it and there will be an anchor point on the image. After that, click again following the edges of your images and adjust the path line holding the Alt button. Do the same thing for the whole image.
Finally you have created your clipping path. Now it’s time to remove the background. Firstly, you have to select the path. You will find a path just beside the layer window. click on your path and click right button on your mouse and then click “Select”. You have selected your path. After that click on the backspace button on your keyboard. The background will be removed automatically and will be transparent.
You have created your clipping path and also removed the background. Now it’s time to replace it with another background. Select the image that you want to use as your background and do “Drag and Drop” on your photoshop. Then select your first layer and keep it in the first possison. Now, you will see that your new background has been set.
That is very easy to create clipping path and remove the background right? However, some images may have too much curve and it may take a long time to create the clipping path. As a result, you may not have enough time to do clipping path for your all images. Clipping Pix.com offers any kind of clipping path services that you may need. They have a very smart team for doing clipping path. You can get your Free sample images Now!
There are over 3 millions people using Amazon for selling their products in USA. As a result, the Amazon seller sells their product all over the world. Though there are millions of buyer in the market but the competition is still high because of the number of sellers. Most importantly, veryday new sellers are being added in the Amazon site for selling their products. To sustain in the market you should follow some requirements to increase your selling in Amazon.com. Therefore, Amazon photo requirements is the first thing to consider for online selling. People buy a product relaying on the images they can view. So, product photography is very important here and you should follow some techniques to shoot your products for Amazon posting. Here are some product photography tips for Amazon sellers_
Keep in mind some technical sides about Amazon photo requirements before posting your photos in your Amazon eCommerce site. You cannot simply post your photos ignoring the requirements from Amazon. If you do so, your images may not get approval from the Amazon. Firstly, the image formate, image size and quality should be considered. Here are the most important image requirements from Amazon_
Image formate: JPEG (.jpeg/.jpg) , PNG (.png), GIF (.gif) or TIFF (.tif/.tiff)
Image Size: The minimum size is 1000px. But Amazon preffers 2560px*1001px.
Background Color: Preferred background color is pure white or transparent background. Any colorful background is not allowed.
Image Frame: The product should fill out 85% of its entire background.
Image Color Mode: RGB or CMYK
– Do not use any watermark, logo, text or any kind of design in your photos.
– Do not use any other formate rather than JPEG, PNG, Gif or TIFF
– Do not use less that 1000px photos (For an example 300px*200px)
– Do not use any colorful background
You can also find the Amazon photo requirements in Amazon official site. Here are additional resources from Amazon_
You may need to remove your image background to make it white or transparent. Clipping Pix.com offers these kind of image editing services that fulfils the Amazon photo requirements. You can get a quotation pricing for your all images post production for free.
Use a high resolution DSLR camera to shoot your product photos. In that case, you can hire a professional photography company and they can shoot your product photos following the Amazon photo requirements. As a result, you will get a high resolution photo. As a result that will help you for your Amazon product listing. The image must be a professional photograph taken in the studio. For example_ shoe, bag, watch etc. being shoot in the green screen or white screen. Do not use any image editing tool to create your artificial product image. However, drawings or illustrations of the product aren’t accepted in Amazon. The image needs to be in-focus and look professionally lit. Most imporatntly, product photos needs to contain realistic colors and look like what you’re selling, you should not shoot the photos in a different color which may changes the entire product outlook.
The another important fact that you should keep in mind that the image can’t contain additional objects that are confusing. For example, you are selling shoes in your seller account. So any other object like pant, socks should not appear or focused in the main image. Because the customer may get confused while looking at your product image and it conflicts with Amazon photo requirements.
The full product needs to appear in the frame and it should adhere 85% of the entire frame. You can use multiple images for showing up your product and the close-up images are allowed. You can have environments in the background, or show the product in use but do not show any other objects that may confuse a buyer.
In the world of product photography, white background is probably the most used background amongst eCommerce sites. It is usually the go-to background for all. White as a background color emphasizes clarity and removes visual obstacles and clutter in today’s trending use. White background as a product background is accepted by all kind of people all over the world and it is one of the most imporatant Amazon photo requirements.
The hue is used to add visual emphasis to other important parts of the design – color, text or images – and is frequently part of an overall visual aesthetic that is simply designed and minimalistic.
Why white background is so important?
Highlights the product: For any image, it is important for the product to be the focal point. Using white background means you’re able to present your products with accurate photos from the quality to details with the least or no distractions. So your images are automatically highlighted because of the white background.
Encourages Consistency: Using white background for all products ensures consistency. This makes customers feel that you’re professional and increases trust that leads to an online user to purchase your product. If you use different types of background color, It is too confusing and distracting with variety of lighting and angles for the buyer and you may lose your selling.
You can include the product details in the image. This may help your site visitor to make a decision of making a purchase. Product details are important part in the Amazon and for the buyer. A visitor must see the details about the product before actually buying it and you can show them up through your images. Here are example how you can add product details in your images_
Outsourcing can be smart way to do your amazon photo editing. If you are too worried about the photos you are going to post in amazon then you can leave your photos in some expert hand like Clipping Pix.com and can get relax! They know how to edit your product photos for amazon posting.
Outsourcing your image editing can save your valuable time that you can use for concentrating on some other parts of your business to increase your online selling. There are hundreds of image editing company available online for outsourcing your image editing. Not all of them are professionals but many of them have great experience of doing this job. Clipping Pix.com has over 7 years of experience on editing amazon product photos. They know the amazon photo requirements and techniques that may really help you to do your amazon selling.
Convert your online visitor to a real buyer using the best possible optimized images. A perfect optimized image really helps to grow your online selling and optimize your eCommerce product photos can generate a huge amount of money. How? well, in this tutorial I will give best 6 tips for optimizing your product photos that will lead to increase your online selling. Most Important ways to optimize your product photos_ 1. Keep your product photos simple and focused 2. Shoot your photos in best angel 3. Invest in post production image editing 4. Highlight the important part of your product 5. Do not forget about the SEO
Convert your online visitor to a real buyer using the best possible optimized images. A perfect optimized image really helps to grow your online selling and optimize your eCommerce product photos can generate a huge amount of money. How? well, in this tutorial I will give best 6 tips for optimizing your product photos that will lead to increase your online selling.
Most Important ways to optimize your product photos_
1. Keep your product photos simple and focused
2. Shoot your photos in best angel
3. Invest in post production image editing
4. Highlight the important part of your product
5. Do not forget about the SEO
As a freelance photographer or eCommerce seller, before posting your product photos to your online store keep in mind that there might be thousands of other sellers who are also selling the same products. So your images need to be very clear and simple that will give a tremendous outlook to your buyer and optimize eCommerce product photos can really help. Simply you cannot make your customer confused about the product and the best way to do that is using a crisp and clear product photo which is optimized for eCommerce site posting.
Plain background/Transparent background, white background are the most commonly used for image background that gives a great look to your image. 90% product found in the online stores are simply plain/ white background. So whether you shoot your photos in the studio on green screen or outdoor shoot, you should edit your photos and remove the background to make it plain/ white background before posting the photos. This is the very begining technique of optimize eCommerce product photos.
Here are some example optimize eCommerce product photos of plain/ white background_
A bad angel product may lose its outlook value and can lose your real customers. To get a perfect shape of your image, first shoot them in the perfect angel. Do not shoot your product photos above the eye level or down the eye level.
In some cases a single image may express all the information about your product. But in most cases you should use not only one image to get your eCommerce customers. Use as many as images that will perfectly give a perfect idea of your products. These all photos should be taken from different angles to express all of the information about your photos. This is the another technique of optimize eCommerce product photos. You can shoot one photo from front view; one photo from side angel and another photo that shows back view. Your customer may want to see your product from every possible angle to make a purchase.
The 3rd technique for optimize eCommerce product photos is to outsouce your image optimization from a 3rd party expertise company. In this modern technology days, the eCommerce business is growing in a very high rate all over the world. Basically eCommerce business is replacing the physical market. Nowadays people do not want to waste their time visiting the shopping mall while they can find all the products online!
That is a great chance to grab the online consumers to sell your thousand of products and generate money. People buy products relaying on the photos that you share in your online store. So images are most important part in the eCommerce industry to grow your selling and optimize eCommerce product photos can play a very important role. If the case is like that, you cannot use a RAW image to post. The image may have unwanted object that you want to eliminate from your final photos. As an eCommerce seller or photographer you have thousands of photos to post and edit them after shoot can really consume your valuable time.
You can outsource your image post production online like you are using online to sell your products. That is very simple! You search for image post production company in google and will find a lot of companies who are providing optimize eCommerce product photos online. You can simply leave your images to them and use your valuable time doing other things to improve your eCommerce business. They will charge you money for doing your image post production (like optimize your eCommerce product photos) but in the final result you will get crisp and clear image!
There are hundreds of Image Editing Company available online. Here is the best 5 image editing company list_
Optimize your eCommerce product photos with detailed informations of the product highlited because a buyer may want to have a detailed look at your products before actually purchasing it. So use some photos that will highlight the product important parts of your product. For an example, if you are selling T-shirt in your online store, use the highlighted images of the material of your T-shirt, Colour and closer look of the neck. These images will really help to lead an online user to purchase your product.
While posting your eCommerce product photos in your online store you cannot simply ignore the SEO (Search Engine Optimization). Optimize eCommerce product photos with specific image title and use alt text while posting the photos in your eCommerce site.
To find your product online SEO can play a vital role because google shows the best search result depending on the SEO. Here are some tips_
1. Give a best title of your image
2. Resize the image
3. Use descriptive alter text
4. Compress images to decrease size
All above the SEO technique will help your product to find online. If you do not follow the SEO tools, your product will be lost among the thousands of products and will not be able to generate sales. So, optimize eCommerce product photos is must for growing your online selling.
New to Photography? Check out our free Ultimate Guide to Photography for Beginners.
If you’ve bought yourself a DSLR (or mirrorless camera) and, after unpacking it from the box, you are intimidated by the number of buttons and dials, and by the thickness of the manual, it can be very tempting to put the manual down, flick it onto ‘Auto’ and start shooting.
Whilst that is fine for some, it may not be long until you crave the creative control that inspired you to purchase a DSLR in the first place, but where do you begin?
If you consider yourself a beginner who is unsure of how to make the most of your camera, this post is designed for you. It’s intended to be a brief, a one-stop shop to help you take your camera off auto, and take control of your DSLR. It isn’t intended to be a replacement for your camera manual, so will not explain every last setting in great depth, but will cover enough of the basics to get you in control of your camera, and give you the key topics to go back to your manual to read.
Here’s some steps for learning how to use that new DSLR that we’ll cover in this article.
There’s lots to learn if you want to get the most from your DSLR but lets start by digging into each of these topics.
Note to Mirrorless Camera Owners: almost everything in this article is relevant not only to DSLR owners but also mirrorless camera owners too!
The best place to start is with shooting modes. The shooting modes will most likely be found on a dial labelled with ‘auto, Av, Tv, P, M’ and maybe more. Selecting a shooting mode will determine how your camera behaves when you press the shutter, for example, when ‘auto’ is selected, the camera will determine everything to do with the exposure, including the aperture and shutter speed. The other modes, ‘Av, Tv, P, M’, are there to give you control:
Don’t worry if your mode dial looks a little different; different manufacturers use different abbreviations for the shooting modes. Your mode dial may have the letters ‘A, S, P, M’ (instead of Av, Tv, P, M), yet they all function in the same way. Below, I have given each abbreviation for the given mode.
Aperture Priority (Av or A)
Aperture priority can be thought of as a ‘semi-automatic’ shooting mode. When this is selected, you as the photographer set the aperture and the camera will automatically select the shutter speed. So what is aperture and when would you want to control it?
The aperture is the size of the opening in the lens through which light is allowed to pass whenever the shutter is opened – the larger the aperture, the more light passes through.
The aperture is measured in ‘f-stops’ and is usually displayed using an ‘f-number’, e.g. f/2.0, f/2.8, f/4.0, f/5.6, f/8.0 etc, which is a ratio of focal length over diameter of the opening. Therefore, a larger aperture (a wider opening) has a smaller f-number (e.g. f/2.0) and smaller aperture (a narrower opening) has a larger f-number (e.g. f/22). Reducing the aperture by one whole f-stop, e.g. f/2.0 to f2/8 or f/5.6 to f/8.0, halves the amount of light entering the camera.
Aperture is one of the most important aspects of photography as it directly influences the depth of field – that is, the amount of an image that is in focus. A large depth of field (achieved by using a small aperture (large f-number)) would mean that a large distance within the scene is in focus, such as the foreground to the background of the landscape below.
Whereas a shallow depth of field (achieved by using a large aperture (small f-number)) would produce an image where only the subject is in sharp focus, but the background is soft and out of focus. This is often used when shooting portraiture or wildlife, such as the image below, to isolate the subject from the background:
So when using aperture priority, you can get complete control over your depth of field, whilst the camera takes care of the rest.
Further Reading: Read more about Aperture Priority Mode.
Shutter Priority (Tv or S)
Similarly to aperture priority, this is another ‘semi-automatic’ shooting mode, though in this instance, you as the photographer set the shutter speed and the camera will take care of the aperture. The shutter speed, measured in seconds (or more often fractions of a second), is the amount of time the shutter stays open when taking a photograph. The longer the shutter stays open, the more light passes through to the sensor to be captured.
You would select a short shutter speed if you wanted to freeze a fast moving subject, such as shooting sports, action or wildlife, for example:
You would use a long shutter speed if you wanted to blur a moving subject, for example water rushing over a waterfall (slower shutter speeds will require you to put the camera on a tripod to ensure the camera is held steady whilst the shutter is open):
So whilst you worry about what shutter speed you need for a given photograph, the camera will determine the appropriate aperture required to give the correct exposure.
Aperture and shutter priority shooting modes may be semi-automatic, meaning that some may deride their use because they’re not fully manual, however they are incredibly useful modes to shoot in that can give you enough creative control to capture scenes as you envisage them.
Further Reading: learn more about Shutter Priority Mode.
Program mode is almost a halfway house between the semi automatic modes of aperture/shutter priority and full manual control. In program mode, you are able to set either the aperture or shutter speed, and the camera will maintain the correct exposure by adjusting the other one accordingly, i.e. as you change the aperture, the shutter speed will automatically change, and vice versa. This gives you additional freedom that using either aperture priority or shutter priority cannot give without switching between shooting modes.
Manual mode is exactly what it sounds like, you are given full control over the exposure determination, setting both the aperture and shutter speed yourself. There will be an exposure indicator either within the viewfinder or on the screen that will tell you how under/over exposed the image will be, however, you are left to change the shutter speed and aperture yourself to ensure you achieve the correct exposure.
Practically Speaking: as a first step to taking your camera off ‘auto’, aperture priority and shutter priority modes offer two very simple ways to start to understand how the different setting impact your images and are a perfect starting place for learning how to use your camera more creatively.
ISO is a measure of how sensitive the sensor of your camera is to light. The term originated in film photography, where film of different sensitivities could be used depending on the shooting conditions, and it is no different in digital photography. The ISO sensitivity is represented numerically from ISO 100 (low sensitivity) up to ISO 6400 (high sensitivity) and beyond, and controls the amount of light required by the sensor to achieve a given exposure
At ‘low’ sensitivities, more light is required to achieve a given exposure compared to high sensitivities where less light is required to achieve the same exposure. To understand this, let’s look at two different situations:
Low ISO numbers
If shooting outside, on a bright sunny day there is a lot of available light that will hit the sensor during an exposure, meaning that the sensor does not need to be very sensitive in order to achieve a correct exposure. Therefore, you could use a low ISO number, such as ISO 100 or 200. This will give you images of the highest quality, with very little grain (or noise).
High ISO numbers
If shooting in low light conditions, such as inside a dark cathedral or museum for example, there is not much light available for your camera sensor. A high ISO number, such as ISO 3200, will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, effectively multiplying the small amount of available light to give you a correctly exposed image. This multiplication effect comes with a side effect of increased noise on the image, which looks like a fine grain, reducing the overall image quality. The noise will be most pronounced in the darker/shadow regions.
Practically Speaking: you want to keep the ISO as low as possible, as the lower the ISO, the less noise and the higher the quality of the resulting image. Outside on a sunny day, select ISO200 and see how it goes. If it clouds over, maybe select an ISO between 400-800. If you move indoors, consider an ISO of around 1600 or above (these are approximate starting points).
Most digital SLRs now have an ‘auto-ISO’ function, where the camera sets the ISO depending upon the amount of light in which you are shooting, keeping it as low as possible. Auto-ISO is a very useful tool when starting out with your camera, as it is allows you to define an upper limit i.e. where the images become too noisy such as ISO1600 or 3200, and then forget about it until situations where you specifically want to override the automatic setting, for example if taking landscape images using a tripod, you can afford to use the lowest ISO possible.
Further Reading: Discover more about how to use ISO.
It’s important to note that aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all part of the ‘exposure triangle’. They all control either the amount of light entering the camera (aperture, shutter speed) or the amount of light required by the camera (ISO) for a given exposure.
Therefore, they are all linked, and understanding the relationship between them is crucial to being able to take control of your camera. A change in one of the settings will impact the other two. For example, considering a theoretical exposure of ISO400, f/8.0, 1/10th second.
If you wanted to reduce the depth of field, and decided to use an aperture of f/4.0, you would be increasing the size of the aperture by two whole f/stops, therefore increasing the amount of light entering the camera by a factor of 4 (i.e. increasing by a factor of 2, twice). Therefore, to balance the exposure, you could do the following:
They all have the net effect of reducing the amount of light by a factor of 4, countering the change in aperture. It’s just a case of understanding that they are all linked, and so changing one setting, will cause a change in another.
Using a combination of the semi-automatic shooting modes and auto-ISO would mean you won’t necessarily need to think about adjusting your exposure in such a way initially, however understanding the relationship that ISO or aperture has with shutter speed, and knowing the practical implications is a big step in mastering your DSLR .
Further Reading: Read more about the Exposure Triangle.
Through out all of the above discussion, I have said that the camera calculates the exposure depending on the amount of available light, but what is it actually doing?
When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation (e.g. aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, auto-ISO etc) the camera always tries to calculate an ‘average’ exposure. It will asses the entire scene, both light and dark areas, and determine the exposure so that all of the tones within the entire image average to 18% grey – called the ‘middle’ grey.
This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it. Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it.
The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed. However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered.
Generally, there are three metering modes that you can choose from:
Average – The camera will assess the tones across the entire image form corner to corner, and expose the scene to 18% grey from that assessment.
Centre-weighted – The camera weights the exposure reading for the area in the centre of the viewfinder that can total up to approximately 80% of the scene, ignoring the extreme corners of the image.
Spot metering – The camera will use a very small area of the scene, typically a small circle in the centre of the viewfinder that totals approximately 5% of the viewfinder area. It will make the assessment of dark/light tones in this area and expose the entire scene to 18% grey, from that assessment.
Practically speaking: when starting out with your camera, either average or centre weighted metering are a good starting point. They will both provide a fairly consistent measure of the exposure required and, if you select one mode and stick with it, you will soon begin to understand when a scene will be under exposed (i.e. too dark) or over exposed (i.e. to light) compared to how you see it with your own eyes.
But what can you do if a scene is under/over exposed? That is where exposure compensation comes in.
Further Reading: A Beginners Guide to Metering Modes
Generally found on a small +/- button near the shutter, this is one of the most useful functions to learn how to use. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene.
If a scene contains primarily bright tones and is being rendered too dark, for example, a bright white snow scene (that will typically be reduced to 18% grey by the default metering system), you can apply positive exposure compensation to let the camera know that the scene should be lighter than middle grey.
Conversely, if a scene contains primarily dark tones and is being rendered too light, for example, a dark night scene (that will typically be increased to 18% grey by the default metering system), you can apply negative exposure compensation to let the camera know that the scene should be darker than middle grey.
Further Reading: How to Use Exposure Compensation to Get Better Exposed Photos.
Regardless of what shooting mode you are using, or what ISO you define, the chances are there will be a subject of your image that you want to have in focus. If that focus is not achieved, the image will not be what you wanted.
DSLRs come with a range of autofocus modes, however, for simplicity, the two that are most important to understand are AF-S and AF-C
AF-S – autofocus-single. This is best used when taking photos of stationary subjectssuch as portraits of people, landscapes, buildings etc. When you half-press the shutter, the focus will be acquired and locked on that point for as long as you hold the button down. If you want to change to focus, you need to release the button, recompose and then re-half-press.
AF-C – autofocus-continuous. This is best used when taking photos of action or moving subjects such as sports and wildlife. When you half-press the shutter, focus will be acquired and locked on to a given subject. When that subject moves, the focus will adjust with it, refocusing all of the time until the photograph is taken.
(These modes are not to be confused with the AF/MF switches on the lens, where AF stands for autofocus and MF stands for manual focus. That switch is an override for if you want to manually focus your lens. If you want to make use of the autofocus modes discussed above, ensure the lens is set to AF).
Further Reading: Understanding Focus Modes
Both of those focus modes rely on what are known as focus points. When you look through the viewfinder, you should see a number of squares/dots overlaid across the screen. When you half-press the shutter, you should see one of these squares be highlighted in red. That is the active focus point, and it is that position within the frame that the camera is focussing on. A viewfinder with 9 focus points is shown below:
New DSLRs can come with over 50 focus points and the temptation is to leave it on fully automatic focus point selection, with the thinking that the camera will be able to select the correct focus point. However, only you know what you want to focus on, and there is no better way than ensuring the correct subject is in focus than by using one focus point, and placing that focus point over the subject.
If you select a single focus point, you should be able to change which point is active fairly easily either by using directional buttons one of the dials. If you select a focus point that is on your desired subject, you will ensure that the camera focuses where you want it to. After a small amount of practice, you will soon get into the habit of being able to change the focus point without taking the camera away form your eye.
Practically speaking: Initially, set your camera to use a single focus point (your camera manual should tell you how to do this). This way, you will be able to choose what you are focussing on, ensuring that the subject you want to capture is in focus. Once you are familiar with the basic focussing modes and focus point selection, you can then explore the more advanced modes that your camera may offer.
You will have the option to be able to change the size of the images that your camera records, and in which file type. You want to set the file size to the largest possible (whether it is ‘large’ or ‘fine’ or ‘super fine’) to ensure that you are making the most of the mega pixels that you have just invested in.
You will also have the option of choosing whether to record the images as ‘raw’ or ‘jpeg’ file type. A raw file is uncompressed, and so contains a lot of image data that allows for a lot of flexibility during post-processing (i.e. on your computer) but also comes with additional complications such as the need to ‘process’ every file using dedicated editing software and a larger file size. A jpeg is a compressed file type, that is automatically processed by the camera. They will be ‘print ready’ straight out of the camera, and are much smaller files, meaning you can fit more images per memory card.
Practically speaking: When starting out with your camera, using jpeg is the most straight forward. It will enable you to get the best results whilst you learn the basics or your camera before complicating matters with post-processing of raw files.
If shooting in jpeg, as recommended above, you will need to make sure you set your white balance before taking a picture. The white balance can significantly impact colour tone of your photographs. You may have noticed that sometimes your images have a blueish tone to them or, in others, everything looks very orange. This is to do with the white balance and, whilst you can make some adjustments to the image on your computer, it is much simpler if you get it right up-front.
Different light sources (such as the sun, light bulbs, fluorescent strips etc) emit light of different wavelengths, and therefore colours, which can be described by what is known as colour temperature. Light from a candle, or from the sun during sunrise/sunset, is very warm, and contains a lot of red/orange wavelengths; whereas light from a fluorescent strip is much cooler, containing a lot of blue wavelengths. This coloured light is reflected off of surfaces, but our brain in clever enough to recognise this and automatically counter the effect, meaning that we still see a white surface as a white surface. However, your camera is not that intelligent, and unless told otherwise, will record the orange or blue tones giving the colour cast to your images.
As the colour temperature of different light sources is well known, there are a number of presets built into your camera that help to overcome the different colours of light in different situations – cooling the warm light, and warming the cool light – all in the cause of trying to capture the colours of the scene accurately. The ‘auto’ feature (auto WB or AWB) will attempt to predict the colour of the light by detecting the predominant colour of the scene and then countering it, however it may not necessarily make a correct decision, leaving you with inaccurate colours. Therefore it is best to set the colour balance before you take your image and just to make sure (note: the above image was a raw file giving me a lot of latitude for white balance correction. Jpeg files are not as susceptible to white balance adjustments, meaning the white balance correction needs to be made before the image is taken):
Daylight – To be used on clear sunny days. Bright sunlight, on a clear day is as near to neutral light that we generally get
Cloudy – To be used when shooting on a cloudy day. Adds warm tones to daylight images.
Shade – To be used if shooting in the shade, as shaded areas generally produce cooler, bluer images, so need warming up.
Tungsten – Used for shooting indoors, under incandescent light bulbs, or under street lights, to cool down the yellow tones.
Fluorescent – Compensates for the green/blue tones of fluorescent light strips when shooting indoors.
Flash – the flash will add a cool blue cast to the image, so used to add some warmth.
Practically speaking: avoid auto white balance and set the white balance manually. Generally, you will be able to look up at the sky and see what kind of day it is, and determine the colour balance required pretty easily. If you move indoors, just check the lighting that you are shooting under, and again select the appropriate white balance. It will soon become second nature to set it as you take your camera out of the bag.
Further Reading: Learn more about White Balance
So that is an overview of the settings you will encounter when you want to take the leap and take your camera off ‘Auto’. You don’t necessarily need to consider them all straight away, but exploring and understanding the effect of each setting will soon have you in complete control of your camera. The biggest step, that will give you the most noticeable difference in the feeling of control and direct influence on creative results, will be to start using the ‘aperture priority’ or ‘shutter priority’ shooting modes and once you are familiar with those, you can start thinking about exploring further. Soon enough, you will no longer think of your camera as a mysterious black box, but understand how to achieve the photographic results that you bought it for in the first place.
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